Smoking meats and
fish is a great American pastime. It was done in the past in combination with
curing not to impart flavor as much as it was to preserve meat and fish though
the months and on long journeys. There was no selection of wood chips available,
electric or gas smokers like so many of us use today. Whatever grew
natively in the land was used to smoke with. Some of our favorite dishes,
like pastrami, gravlox and smoked salmon come from these techniques. I've
included two salmon recipes here, including one that smokes it on the grill,
and another that cures it into a version of pastrami. The pastrami is not
cooked, but cured in a multi-day process that infuses layers of flavor into the
fish and renders it succulent and ready to eat.
Today we have a variety of woods to chose
from. Smoking with fruit wood such as apple or cherry wood will impart
sweet smoky flavors. Smoking with heavier woods such as hickory and
mesquite will produce a smokier and almost bitter flavor. There are so
many ways to get that oh so good smoke flavor onto your meat and fish, from
brining to dry rubs and cures, using a bbq with a side smoker box or fashioning
an old 50 gallon drum into a smoker.
One
inexpensive and easy way to get a smoke flavor is to use cedar planks. You
won’t find too many people who use cedar chips to smoke with, because cedar is
a conifer. Woods such as pine, fur, cedar and Cyprus are very soft and
contain a lot of sap. They burn very fast and in doing so will impart bad
flavors. However if you soak a plank of cedar in water for a day it will
impart sweet smoky cedar flavors on your delicate fish.
At
Bridgewaters and Twenty Four Fifth we cedar plank salmon on our outdoor grill
during the summer months and serve it right on the planks to our guests.
It’s a great way to present your fish and an interactive way of cooking in
front of your guests.
Pastrami Salmon
Cure for 1 side salmon
One 4-5 lb side of salmon, skin on, pin bones removed
½ bunch cilantro, chopped
½ bunch parsley, chopped
2 medium shallots, chopped
2c Kosher Salt
2 Tbsp saltpeter (sodium nitrite or pink salt)
¼ c light brown sugar
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¾ c
turbinado sugar (sugar in
the raw)
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground allspice
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp fresh thyme, chopped
Glaze for 1 side salmon
¼ cup molasses
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp chili powder
3 bay leaves
2 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp coriander seed
2 tbsp fresh ground black pepper
To cure the salmon,
combine all ingredients for the cure in a bowl. Place a cut piece of cheesecloth large
enough to wrap around the entire side of salmon in a disposable pan or sheet
tray. Place half of the cure mix on the
cheesecloth and spread it around so it will cover the skin side of the salmon
when you lay it on top. Lay the salmon
on top of the cure mix, skin side down and use the remaining cure mix to coat
the flesh side of the salmon. Once
covered, wrap the cheesecloth over the salmon.
Place another pan directly on top of the wrapped salmon and use a few
cans of tomatoes or anything you have laying around to weight the pay/tray down. This will help push the moisture out of the
salmon and cure evenly. Rest your salmon
in the fridge with the weight on top for 3 days.
When 3 days have
passed, remove from the fridge and unwrap.
Scrape off the cure mix and wipe the surface of the salmon off with a
damp paper towel. Place back in the
fridge until ready to be glazed.
In a small saucepan, combine the
molasses, cayenne pepper, chili powder and bay leaves and bring to a simmer.
Let cool to room temperature. In a small sauté pan gently toast the whole
coriander seeds until they become aromatic.
Crush them in a mortar and pestle and combine with smoked paprika and
fresh ground black pepper.
Brush the molasses onto the flesh
side of your cured salmon and sprinkle the spice mixture on top. Refrigerate the salmon uncovered overnight
and enjoy the next day.
Cedar Planked Maple Glazed Salmon
Serves 4 people
4ea. 8-10oz portions of Salmon, skin off
1ea. 8inx18in cedar plank
¼ c. Maple Glaze
Vegetable Oil
Kosher Salt
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Ground Black Pepper
For the Glaze:
¼ c Pure Maple Syrup
¼ c Dark Rum
1 ½ Tbsp Dijon Mustard
Combine all ingredients in a small sauce pot. Cook over Medium heat until reduced by half
and has a glaze consistency.
For the Salmon:
Purchase Cedar
Planks for grilling or you can purchase a plank of Cedar from you local
Hardware store. Be sure if purchasing
from a hardware store that the Cedar has not been treated with any
chemicals.
Soak Cedar plank
in cold water for a minimum of 2 hours. Season
your salmon portions with salt and pepper and brush on the maple glaze. Preheat your grill on high. Place your plank on the grill for 1 minute or
so to get it hot. Turn it over and with
an oiled paper towel wipe the surface.
Place your seasoned and glazed salmon on top of the preheated
plank. Close the grill cover and let the
salmon cook for 5-7 minutes. You should
see smoke and may hear a popping sound from the moisture in the wood. If you see an excess amount of smoke you can
lower the flame on your grill. You want
it to smoke but not to ignite. Present
your salmon to your guests right on the plank.